Fashion

The BRETON TOP

March 11, 2023

Title Image: Luke Edward Hall

The former French naval uniform was first hailed a high fashion item by Coco Chanel in 1917 ( Her again ! )

Over the years, It has been worn by numerous celebrities, from John Wayne, James Dean, Brigitte Bardot, John Lennon, Pablo Picasso … to Madonna and Kate Middleton, to name but a few.

A hundred years later, the BRETON Top has been seen on catwalks countless times notably at Jean Paul Gaultier. He included à mariner stripe in every collection of his 50 years career, and made it its signature.

This season the BRETON Top was back in the hands of luxury designers, from Balmain, Louis Vuitton, Loewe, Dior, and also younger ones like VTMNTS, Erdem, JW Anderson etc…

Please note, ZARA’s version will pass muster.

Rosario the Gondolier, La Gondola

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THE MOST ICONIC DRESSES

February 2, 2023

There are dresses, and then there are Iconic Dresses – the ones that stay in your memory long after they left the big screen or the red carpet. Sometimes it’s because they are beautiful, sometimes it’s because they are inspirational, sometimes because they are just downright ridiculous. But whatever the reason, these are the dresses that have earned their place in history.

In order of their appearance, here are my favourite ones:

1. JOHN SINGER, PORTRAIT OF MADAME X, 1884

When John Singer Sargent exhibited his portrait of “Madame X” at the Paris Salon he shocked “Le Tout Paris”. Crowds jeered and jabbed at it, while critics decried the indecency of the famous beauty’s dress. The scandal left Sargent humiliated, but he eventually sold Madame X to the Met in 1916, calling the portrait “The best thing he’d ever done”.

2. COCO CHANEL, The LITTLE BLACK DRESS , 1926

Fashion trends come and go, but the “ Little Black Dress” created by the legendary designer remains immortal with the passage of time. When Vogue published an image of Coco’s radically simple Little Black Dress , it predicted that the plain, straight line dress would be ‘The Frock that all the world will wear’ . Indeed!

3. JOSEPHINE BAKER’S BANANA SKIRT, 1927

At The Folies Bergère, hordes of Parisians flocked to see ” La Revue Nègre”, a musical about jazz culture. Wearing little more than a string of pearls and a skirt made of rubber bananas, Josephine Baker descended on stage from a palm tree, and began to dance. She became an overnight sensation, an her costume became an iconic symbol of the Jazz Age and the Roaring Twenties.

4. GINGER ROGERS, The OSTRICH FEATHER DRESS, 1935

In 1935 Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers made cinema history with their most successful film “Top Hat”. However, it wasn’t Astaire’s headgear that got people talking, it was Rogers’ ostrich feather dress she worn dancing “Check to Cheek”.

5. WALLIS, DUCHESS OF WINDSOR’S WEDDING DRESS, 1937

The bride wore Mainbocher, a floor length column dress with a hart shaped bodice. Its conservative silhouette exemplified the austere style favoured by the American divorcee, and lent a sobriety to the scandalous union. Within weeks copies of the dress appeared in department stores.

6. VIVIEN LEIGH “GONE WITH THE WIND” 1939

Left with no money, Scarlett O’Hara tried to impress Red Butter wearing a green dress made out of velvet curtains. She didn’t fool him.

7. CHRISTIAN DIOR, THE BAR SUIT, 1947

The celebrated outfit, triggered a fashion revolution with its hourglass line. Christian Dior provided women with the ammunition to assert their powers of seduction, and gave the gloomy post-war era a new joie de vivre. Carmel Snow, Harper’s Bazaar editor called Christian Dior first collection “The New Look”.

8. MARILYN MONROE, “GENTLEMEN PREFER BLONDES” 1953

Designed by William Travilla, the hot pink strapless gown worn by Marilyn as she sings “Diamonds Are Girl’s Best Friends” , is one of the most iconic dresses of cinema history . Madonna had a copy made for one of her video.

9. GRACE KELLY, “ TO CATCH A THIEF ” 1955

The white chiffon gown worn by the future Princess Grace of Monaco, was one of the most beautiful dress to ever hit the silver screen . Created by legendary costume designer Edith Head, it remains as beautiful today as it did at the time – the mark of truly great design.

10. MARILYN MONROE, “ The SUBWAY DRESS ” 1955

The legendary dress worn by Marilyn Monroe in “The Seven Year Itch” reached its iconic status long time ago. The star sex appeal made the dress one of the most recognisable piece of clothing.

It made Monroe immortal, but it may also have doomed her marriage. Joe Di Maggio stormed off the film set, and three weeks later they divorce. In 2011, Marilyn’s dress sold at auction for a record breaking 5.5 million dollars.

11. GRACE KELLY’S WEDDING DRESS, 1956

Created by Helen Rose, a costume designer at MGM Studios, for her marriage to Prince Rainier of Monaco, the dress launched a million replicas for decades to come.

12. ANITA EKBERG, “ LA DOLCE VITA” 1960

The movie was an international sensation. It features a scene about the star cavorting in Rome Trevi Fountain and has been called “One of the most iconic movie scenes”.

13. AUDREY HEPBURN, “BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY’S” 1961

You can’t get more iconic than the Hubert de Givenchy gown worn by Audrey Hepburn in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s”. The simple black dress became a fashion icon immediately after the film’s release, and the star herself became the epitome of chic.

14. MARILYN MONROE, “ HAPPY BIRTHDAY MR PRESIDENT” 1962

Singing to John F Kennedy, in a full length evening sheath, Marilyn Monroe dazzled and scandalised America . Bob Mackie was just out of college when he designed the famous dress who became the model for all present transparent red carpet outfits.

It sold at auction in 1999 for over 1 million dollars. Then again in 2016, for a whooping 5 million. To this day, it holds the record for being the most expensive dress sold at auction. The latest Met Gala theme was “Gilded Glamour” Kim Kardashian certainly delivered when she wore the famous dress lent by the Believe-it-Or-Not Museum who owns it.

15. JACQUELINE KENNEDY’S PINK SUIT, 1963

The First Lady had worn the pink suit on several occasions before that fateful day in Dallas. The suit was thought to be an authorised copy of a Chanel suit. After John F Kennedy was shot, the First Lady could not be persuaded to remove her blood stain ensemble. She wore it on board Air Force One, as Lyndon Johnson was sworn in. The outfit has been preserved, with the stains intact, and held by the National Archives in Maryland.

16. ELIZABETH TAYLOR, “CLEOPATRA” 1963

Elizabeth Taylor wore an amazing golden gown which perfectly suited her role as the queen. It is said to be the most expensive gown made for the silver screen.

LEFT – LE SMOKING, YVES SAINT LAURENT, 1966. CENTRE – CATHERINE DENEUVE, “ BELLE DE JOUR” 1967. RIGHT – BROOKE SHIELDS, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, 1980.

17. LE SMOKING, YVES SAINT LAURENT, 1966

Arguably the most famous classic tuxedo worn by women. When Yves Saint Laurent sent Le Smoking on to the catwalk for his 1966 Haute Couture show, women wearing pants was still considered radical on both sides of the Atlantic. New York socialite Nan Kempner was denied entry to the Manhattan’s chic “ La Cote Basque”. Kempner removed her pants and walked into the restaurant wearing only the smoking jacket. Et Voilà!

18. CATHERINE DENEUVE, “ BELLE DE JOUR” 1967

The little black and white dress created by Yves Sy Laurent symbolised the master-maid part played by the star.

19. BROOKE SHIELDS, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, 1980

15 year old Brooke Shields appeared in print and TV ads for Calvin Klein jeans . Shot by Richard Alvedon, Brooke confide “You want to know what comes between me and my Calvin’s ? Nothing” She, certainly, helped the designer denim craze.

20. PRINCESS DIANA’S WEDDING DRESS, 1982

The huge silk Emanuel creation, with its 25 foot train, inspired a generation of brides It’s meringue style impact can still be seen today.

21. JEAN PAUL GAULTIER , MADONA CONIC BRA , 1990

22. CHER’S, OSCARD DRESS , 1986

Bob Mackie, Cher’s long time costume maker, created this outrageous outfit for the Oscars, at which the singer presented an award. She quipped “As you can see, I did receive my Academy booklet on how to dress like a serious actress”. The dress has been a fixture on Oscar worst-dressed lists ever since.

23. SHARON STONE, “ BASIC INSTANT” 1992

The tiny polo neck dress worn in the pivotal scene, is memorable for more than one reason… It was to symbolise the sex appeal of Stone’s murder suspect character.

24. KATE MOSS, THE SLIP DRESS , 1993

Calvin Klein ultimate dress of the moment, and still in vogue today.

25. PRINCESS DIANA “The REVENGE DRESS” 1994

The night Prince Charles admitted on TV to his affair with Camilla Parker-Bowles, Princess Diana stepped out in this sexy black mini dress by Christina Stambolian.

26. ELIZABETH HURLEY’S “THAT DRESS” 1994

Hurley was a struggling actress, best known as Hugh Grant’s girlfriend. She totally upstaged him at the premiere of the film “Four Weddings and a Funeral” wearing a borrowed black Versace dress held together by giant gold safety pins. By the next year, she had a contract with Estée Lauder.

27. GERI HALLIWELL, The UNION JACK MINI, 1997

Geri thought that the little black Gucci dress she had been given to wear for the Spice Girl’s performance at the Brit Awards was too boring. She asked her sister to stitch a Union Jack tea towel onto the front. An icon was born.

28. JENNIFER LOPEZ’S, THE JUNGLE DRESS, 2000

With a neckline that plunges below the navel, a slit that climbed to the crotch, it is said that the Versace chiffon palm print gown launched Google Images. Its CEO admitted as much, after J-Lo wore it at the Grammy Awards. She wore it again on a recent Versace show, and proved once again that it’s the gown and the girl that matter.

29. BJORK, The SWAN DRESS, 2001

Totally OTT, “The Swan Dress” is red carpet fashion at its most idiotic. It made headlines for weeks after the singer wore it to the 73rd Academy Awards. It became one of the most parodied frocks of all time.

LEFT KATE MIDDLETON’S MESH DRESS, 2002: RIGHT LADY GAGA’S MEAT DRESS, 2010.

30. KATE MIDDLETON’S MESH DRESS, 2002

As the story goes “She is hot” Prince William would have said of Kate Middleton wearing the knitted slip dress at St Andrew’s University charity show. The rest is truly history.

31. LADY GAGA’S MEAT DRESS, 2010

Franc Fernandez created a sensation when he sent Lady Gaga to the Met Gala in this shocking outfit. Animal rights activists and vegetarian groups were seeing red. Gaga has explained it was about sending a message: “If we don’t stand for what we believe, and if we don’t fight for our rights, pretty soon we’re going to have as much rights as the meat on our own bones”.

LEFT MEGHAN MARKLE’S WEDDING DRESS, 2018: RIGHT FRIDA KAHLO’S TEHUANA DRESS, 1907-1954.

32. MEGHAN MARKLE’S WEDDING DRESS, 2018

Her wedding gown created by Claire Waight Keller for Givenchy, wowed the world by its impressive simplicity.

And from then on it was downhill all the way…

33. FRIDA KAHLO’S TEHUANA DRESS, 1907-1954

The legendary Mexican painter has become a byword for artistic female autonomy. Her vivid dresses, corsets, and traditional Mexican garments are a forever muse on the like of Dolce & Gabbana, Jean Paul Gautier and many others.

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The TRENCH COAT

September 16, 2022

The myth of the TRENCH COAT is that it was worn by soldiers in the muddy trenches of the First World War. In reality, those that did wear it were of officer rank who purchased it themselves – a mark of social distinction and class.

The TRENCH COAT evolved from waterproof coats created by Scottish chemist Charles Macintosh and British inventor Thomas Hancock in the 1820s.

In 1853, a Mayfair gentlemen’s tailor named John Emary developed a raincoat, under the name of his company Aquascutum. Thomas Burberry, a young draper from Hampshire followed suit in 1856 with the founding of his eponymous company.

Both Aquascutum and Burberry take credit for having invented the TRENCH COAT The truth is that the two firms helped popularise a coat already in existence, and adapting it from military use.

Worn in some of the most iconic scenes in film history – Humphrey Bogarde in Casablanca, Audrey Hepburn in Breakfast at Tiffany, as well as Marlene Dietrich, Meryl Streep, Catherine Deneuve etc… the TRENCH became synonymous with intrepid men and stylish women.

Today, the TRENCH has been revisited by designers such as Jean Paul Gautier, Martin Margiela, Rei Kawakubo… as well as every department stores from Zara to Marks & Spencer. It’s the ultimate utility piece, and few designs have the iconic status of this classic coverup.

The TRENCH COAT remain the signature for his originator Burberry.

BURBERRY

The TRENCH COAT followers

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Citrus Yellow

July 20, 2022

The catwalks have embraced Yellow recently .

So it’s no surprise that the colour that dazzled the interior world at the recent Milan furniture fair – CITRUS YELLOW

YELLOW, the colour of sunshine, symbolise hope, happiness and energy .

Back home, Yellow has spread to London. Grayson Perry’s rooms at the Royal Academy Summer Exhibition, are decorated in the citrus shade.

The artist Kostya Benkovich, who fled Russia because of his anti-war stance, unveils his sculpture The Suitcase, which highlights the plight of refugees, at the Assembly Gardens, Edinburgh.

Issey Miyake

Yellow the colour of sunshine…

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Fashion Icons

April 29, 2020

Fashion Icons

1 Iconic Women

2 Iconic Women’s items

3 Iconic Men

4 Iconic Men’s items

“Celebrities used to have style. Today they have stylists”

Breakfast at Tiffanys

The LITTLE BLACK DRESS defining moment came in 1926 when Vogue published a sketch of a black dress designed by Coco Chanel. Until then black was only worn for mourning.

When Audrey Hepburn wore a LITTLE BLACK DRESS, designed by Hubert De Givenchy in the film “Breakfast at Tiffany”, the LITTLE BLACK DRESS became one of the most iconic items of clothing in the history of the Twenty Century cinema, and perhaps the most famous LITTLE BLACK DRESS of all time.

Here are 16 of the most iconic and influential women of the last Century…

Some Iconic Women’s Items

1 The Chanel Suit

The CHANEL SUIT, inspired by Coco’s lover, the Duke of Westminster, was not a success when it was first introduced. But after World War II Chanel reinvented the suit, as we know it today. This time it was a big success and became one of Chanel’s most iconic creations. It has influenced many look-a-likes. Zara brings out new versions, time and time again.

2 The Chanel Bag

The first bag Coco Chanel designed in 1929 was a clutch bag, like any other hand-carried bag that were available at the time. In 1955 Coco Chanel changed handbag history in adding a strap. For the first time, it was acceptable for upper-class women to carry a bag on their shoulders. The CHANEL BAG became the most popular item on every woman’s wish list.

3 Chanel Two-Tones Shoes

When it was launched in 1957, the press dubbed the TWO TONES shoes “The new Cinderella Slipper”. Celebrities like Brigitte Bardot and Catherine Deneuve adopted them immediately. Chanel chose the nude/black combo for a reason: the nude colour was intended to lengthen the leg, and the black cap toe to shortens the foot.

4 Chanel No 5

It was the first perfume launched by Gabrielle Chanel in 1921. When presented with different scents in five glass containers, numbered 1 to 5, she chose the fifth one. She told the master perfumer “I like No 5, I present my collection on the fifth day of May, the fifth month of the year, so it will be called CHANEL No 5. It will bring good luck.” It certainly did.

5 Yves Saint Laurent Le Smoking

In 1966 Yves Saint Laurent designed LE SMOKING, a tuxedo for women. Bianca Jagger married Mick in St Tropez in a white version. Catherine Deneuve has been a devotee. Designers have all made versions of LE SMOKING, and today style icons wear theirs with or without trousers.

6 Calvin Klein Slip dress

In the 90s, Calvin Klein gave the “Little Black Dress” a serious makeover by turning it into a casual dress, closely resembling an underslip. The SLIP DRESS became popular as part of a new underwear-as-outerwear trend which is popular today.

7 The Birkin bag

In the 80s, Jane Birkin was seated next to Hermes’s CEO, on a flight from Paris to London. In no time she was complaining she could never find the perfect weekend bag and described what her dream bag would look like. He made notes. The BIRKIN BAG became, and remain, the most exclusive accessory in the world.

8 The Breton Top

The stripe top was first introduced as the uniform for all of France’s navy seamen. On a trip to the coast, Coco Chanel (her again) noticed it and incorporated it in her navy collection. Over the years, the BRETON TOP has been worn by such varied personalities as James Dean and Pablo Picasso, and today style icons Kate Moss and Alexa Chung.

9 Ray-Ban Aviator Sunglasses

Originally developed for US Aviators in 1936, to protect their eyes while flying, the style was credited as being one of the first sunglasses to be popularised. In the 1970s and 1980s, celebrities like Elvis Presley, Steve McQueen, George Michael, Tom Cruise, worn the AVIATOR SUNGLASSES as fashion items mimicking military style.

10 The Basque Beret

The BERET was the traditional headgear of shepherds from the Basque Region. It then became part of some military uniforms. Once considered the national cap of french men, It’s now part of the stereotypical image of the Onion Man.

11 The Hermes Scarf

Princess Grace of Monaco used an HERMES SCARF as a sling for a broken arm. In “The Devil Wears Prada” Emily Blunt character sent boxes and boxes of Hermes scarfs in the air. Queen Elizabeth is frequently photographed wearing a Hermes Scarf over her head. And in 1950, a postage stamp featuring her wearing the famous scarf.

12 Lady Dior Bag

Given to Princess Diana by the First Lady of France, it was baptised in her honour the LADY DIOR BAG. It became her favourite bag and made a string of subsequent appearances. It remains the iconic item of the House of Dior.

Men Fashion Icons

Some Iconic Men’s Items

1 Rolex Watches

The creator of the ROLEX WATCH took the first step in the world of Swiss watchmaking to conceive a timepiece that could be worn around the wrist. Many models have been launched over the years. ROLEX watches have been seen on the wrists of political leaders, sports champions,

film and music stars, transforming each model into status symbol.

2 Converse All Stars

The company stated making baseball shoes in the early Twentieth Century. In 1923 the CONVERSE ALL STARS were designed in its present-day form.

3 Saville Row Suits

SAVILLE ROW reputation is built on bespoke tailoring. The term came to mean a suit cut and made by hand. Tailors started doing business in the area in the Eighteen Century. Henry Poole, later credited as the creator of the TUXEDO, opened in 1806 and moved to SAVILLE ROW

in 1846. It was followed by Henry Huntsman & Sons. Both companies still have showrooms in SAVILLE ROW.

4 The Burberry Check

BURBERRY’S signature CHECK is famed the world over.

5 Burberry Trench Coat

The BURBERRY TRENCH COAT was originally conceived to protect military officers against harsh weather. It has remained the company’s most recognisable piece and the foundation of the brand.

6 Lacoste Shirt

René Lacoste founded LA CHEMISE LACOSTE in the Thirties. It was aimed at tennis players. The company claims this is the first example of a brand name appearing on the outside of an article of clothing.

7 The Duffle Coat

The name DUFFLE derives from DUFFEL, a town in Belgium where the fabric originated. The design may have been a Polish military frock coat. In 1850, a British manufacturer developed a version of it, and the army purchased the coat for the Royal Navy. It was widely used during World War II, and the nicknamed “the Monty coat” after the iconic Commander Field Marshall Montgomery.

8 The Loafer

It was a Norwegian who first invented the classic foundation of the LOAFER SHOE. LOAFER symbolises high-class slip-on shoes.

9 The Tuxedo

There are two stories about the origin of the TUXEDO.

According to one school of thought, it was created by a resident of Tuxedo Park, New York. The other, an American on vacation in England, was introduced to the Prince of Wales. He asked the Prince for advice on formal wear. The Prince sent him to his own tailor, Henry Poole & Co of Saville Row. He was fitted with a black jacket and tie that was unlike anything worn in the United States for formal occasions. Back in New York, he wore it at a ball at the Tuxedo Club and gave it its name TUXEDO.

10 Levi’s 501 Jeans

First made with work in mind, using fabric from Nimes, in France (de – Nimes) LEVI’S JEANS later became a symbol of cool for rebellious youth and rebels, with or without a cause. Today LEVI’S JEANS are worn across the globe, breaking barriers between sexes, ages, and classes.

11. The BLAZER

The sartorial term BLAZER originated with the red BLAZER of the rowing club of St John’s College Cambridge, in 1825. The stripe BLAZER became very popular in the “Swinging Sixties” when the Beatles, the Rolling Stones, the Moody Blues… all band members were wearing stripes.

CARTIER TANK WATCH designed by Louis Cartier in 1916, an icon of modern watchmaking.

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Genderlessness

March 28, 2020

Genderlessness

With terms like gender fluidity, gender-bending and androgyny becoming buzzwords, designers are sending men in skirts and women in tuxedos onto the catwalks.

Until the eighteenth century, both men and women of the elite class decked themselves out in elaborate dresses. An abundant use of silks, velvets, laces, as well as wigs and scented powders, were the norm. Men in pink embroidered jackets, gold and silver jewellery, high heeled shoes, were considered very masculine.

Fashion became feminised again in the nineteenth century when sexual difference through clothing was important in the social order.

Coco Chanel

It was Coco Chanel, in the 1920s, who first made trousers popular for women, pioneering masculine tailoring. She took inspiration from the country wardrobe of her lover The Duke of Westminster.

Marlene Dietrich

In the 30s, the golden age of Hollywood glamour, Marlene Dietrich appeared in white tie and tails in the film Morocco. Audiences were mesmerised!

The attitude was forced to change during the austerity years of the 40s and 50s.

And then, with the unisex fashion of the “Swinging Sixties” and the social revolution, the gender lines became somewhat less clear.

David Bowie & Rod Stewart

David Bowie and Rod Stewart’s psychedelic outfits we’re the epitome of androgyny.

Yves Saint Laurent & Catherine Deneuve

In 1966 Yves St Laurent introduced “Le Smoking”, a tuxedo for women. The masculine line was revolutionary. Later, he would interpret the mannish silhouette in gangster striped suits and safari jackets.

With the introduction of trousers, it was said that Chanel liberated women, and Yves St Laurent gave them power.

When Nan Kempner, a New York socialite, was refused entrance to a Manhattan restaurant wearing her YSL suit, her answer was to drop the trousers and march to her table wearing only the jacket as a mini dress. Et voila!

Bianca Jagger married Mick in St Tropez in a white version of “Le Smoking”. Today, style icons Kate Moss and Alexa Chung wear theirs with or without trousers.

Fashion has always been a mirror of its time – in art, politics, commerce…

Since the 1990s, it has been trying to blur the gender lines, and today gender-neutral clothing is back in vogue.

Versace

Valentino

Dries van Noten

Because of globalisation, fashion houses have to be constantly innovative and think outside the box. When international brands started turning their shows into girl-boy platforms and decked them in similar outfits, it was indicative of a gender political wave that will only get bigger. It reflects the social and sexual changes.

Harry Styles & Pharell Williams

Fashion houses and jewellers claim that men are beguiling to buy pearls earrings and necklaces that were once associated with their grandmothers. An assortment of celebs, including Harry Styles and Pharrell Williams are helping to spread the idea that a modern man can wear pearls.

Today, the younger generation has a different attitude towards sexual identity. They often borrow elements of clothing from each other’s wardrobe – shirts, sweaters, blazers, hats, and caps.

Labels like The Kooples, encourage gender-swapping clothes, and unisex underwear is now a big thing. Clavin Klein was the first designer to cash in on it.

At a college last year, a group of male students stepped out in skirts proclaiming to counter the heatwave!

The A-list often swap their cocktail or evening dresses for something masculine. Among the sheer dresses and split skirts, tuxedos are bucking the trend. This does not mean forgoing flesh. Just leave off the shirt.

Young men care about their appearance, spend a lot of time at the gym, and money on clothing, skin and hair products.

Some men labeled “Metrosexuals”, are prepared to experiment with a man-skirt. It has been trying to go mainstream since the 1960s, and Jean Paul Gaultier has been its pioneer.

While this trend has still to find many takers, Hollywood celebrities like Kanye West, Jared Leto, Jaden Smith have shown their support. Remember David Beckham in his pareo?

And it’s not just young men who have changed their attitude towards fashion. Those who, ten years ago, might have regarded them as “gay clothes” are now wearing rainbow colours to go to the pub or the football match. Pink has been adopted by very masculine guys.

(see “La Vie en Rose”post)

Timothee Chalamet

Recently, “cross dressing” has become a subject of press interest, and an antidote to concepts of society and gender. Grayson Perry as Claire his alter-ego, has become an accepted figure in the art world.

The Victoria & Albert Museum recently displayed a kimono owned by Freddie Mercury, pointing out that he was drawn to the garment for its ability to challenge ideas about gender and sexual norms.

In 2017, the #MeToo movement opened our eyes to gender roles and behaviour, and to the importance of equality between the sexes. In a very short time, we have become aware of identification. It has probably been the fastest evolution in history, thanks to the internet and social media.

Backed up by the voices of new generations, “genderlessness” has become a hot topic.

Billy Porter

Dior

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Simply White

February 2, 2020

Simply WHITE

Technically WHITE is not a colour. Well, it’s my favourite colour!

It is the symbol of purity and romance. The list of clichés is endless. The dove of peace; the meringue dress of the bride; the linen sheet; the carpet of snow; the sheet of paper in front of the writer or the composer; and, in history, the famous Malevich painting “WHITE on WHITE” which opened the door to avant-garde art; or the floating icebergs symbol of our changing world.

Over the years I have designed WHITE clothes and WHITE rooms. My house in the South of France is all WHITE. I have also given some memorable WHITE parties (see White Parties post).

Vintage Roland Klein

Chez Moi en Provence

For me, home has always been a special place, somewhere I can shut the door to the outside world and feel calm and refreshed. At the end of any trip, business or pleasure, the best moment is when my keys open the front door.

A WHITE space can be like the perfect little black dress – simple, stylish, classic, and yet modern.

ALL WHITE ON THE NIGHT

The coolest way to upstage the guests. The only rule – keep red wine at distance.

Time and time again I have referred to Coco Chanel’s motto “Le luxe c’est la Simplicite” (luxury equals simplicity).

Valentino

Think beyond flat white.

It’s a misconception that a WHITE room looks cold. WHITE is not just one colour. There is an enormous palette of WHITES, all different shades and tones, but nonetheless WHITE.

WHITE not only brings a room to life, but it also accentuates architectural details, mouldings and woodwork.

I often use several different tones of WHITE to decorate one room. In a recent project, I used WHITE with a tinge of lilac for the walls, chalky WHITE for the cornices, and plain WHITE for the ceilings.

Lighting is very important. Too bright and the room can then look sterile.

One of the joys of decorating a WHITE room is that one can play by adding colours with rugs, cushions, plants and flowers.

And a WHITE wall provides the perfect canvas to display artwork.

You can give a new lease of life to any old piece of furniture with a coat of WHITE paint. A wooden floor painted WHITE will look regenerated and stylish.

In today’s hectic life, a WHITE room can be more valuable than anything in the search for peace and harmony.

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It’s A Jungle Out There

November 9, 2019

It’s A Jungle Out There

Jennifer Lopez in the Versace remade version of the Jungle print dress

that created a sensation almost 20 years ago

Fashion is always a reflection of what’s going on in the world, be it politics, art, culture or commerce… and interior design trends often follow fashion trends.

Blame the climate crisis, carbon footprint or the Amazon fires, but forests, jungles and oceans have been front-page news recently.

Several fashion houses – Valentino, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana in particular, all had jungle fever. And the interiors world soon followed.

Lots of wallpapers and printed fabrics are now available. China and ceramics are also decorated with jungle motifs.

Valentino

Versace Dries Van Noten Versace

Here is a selection of some of my preferences…

ceramic and wood platter by John Lewis

Working from home

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La Vie En Rose

June 14, 2019

La Vie En Rose

The coolest colour to have in your home right now?

It has to be pink!

It is curious how the meaning of colours has changed over time. Pink relationship with gender has long been challenged.

In the 19th century, girls started to dress in powder blue, and Pink became the colour for boys.

In the 1940s marketers decided pink was the colour for girls.

Jayne Mansfield, Hollywood star of the 1950s had her home referred to as The Pink Palace.

India Mahdavi, today’s designer extraordinaire, created the decor for the trendy Sketch in London, using swathes of marshmallow velvet.

If pink has recently been a colour of high fashion, in interior design it is breaking free of gender stereotypes. Scandinavian brands have embraced it wholeheartedly.

Pink is now a colour that men are happy wearing and might even consider for their homes.

Valentino

It’s a colour who goes very well paired with darker colours – black, brown or cobalt. Mixed with yellow, orange, lime green, terracotta it adds strength and drama. It becomes dusty and romantic mixed with white, soft grey, silver.

They say pink and red don’t go together… They do.

It can be adapted to any interiors, traditional or contemporary.

As we use our homes not just as a place we live and breathe, but often as a place to escape from our hard edge existence, pink environment creates a sensation of energy and well being. It brings calm and serenity.

Therefore, who could resist the power of pink?

mimi / Fashion / 10 comments

Ageing Gracefully

May 1, 2019

Ageing Gracefully

Old age ain’t what it used to be!

“You must never think your age, and you must certainly never dress your age.”

Donatella Versace

1. Helen Mirren, 2. Diane Von Furstenberg, 3. Jean Dujardin, 4. Glen Close, 5. Giorgio Armani, 6. Grace Coddington, 7. Christine Lagarde, 8. Brigitte Macron, 9. Charlotte Rampling, 10. HRH Queen Elizabeth, 11. Jane Fonda, 12. Andre Leon Talley, 13. Iris Apfel, 14. Ralph Lauren, 15. Christina Scott Thomas, 16. Catherine Deneuve 17 Prue Leith, 18. Emma Forbes, 19. Dame Edna Everage, 20. Harrison Ford.

Let’s face it, no-one likes the ageing process, but since you can’t stop it, you might as well embrace it. Look on the bright side – no more exams to sit, no more job interviews, no more objects of desire to impress… It’s freedom! And there are ways to make it more palatable.

Here are some of my tips…

1. First and foremost is your attitude to life. We live in an increasingly stressful world, it’s the modern disease. Be positive, open up to new ideas, new faces, new adventures.

2. By now you know who you are and don’t give a damn. Who cares what people think? So, express your true nature.

3. Never indulge in bitterness. Do that and you end up a bitter person. Let it go.
“The price of peace is forgiveness.”

4. Live for the moment. Today is the most important day of your life.

5. Too many people are wrapped up in the past, “In my days …” You often hear from older folks. Things were not all better. They were just different. That’s why I strongly advise having young friends. Let them be your role models. They bring to the table different viewpoints as well as educating you to the modern way of life. Remember “it’s never too late to teach old dog new tricks”.

6. Make some plans for tomorrow, as well as for next year.

There are also practical ways to embrace the ageing process:

1. The key to good health is what you eat. The Mediterranean diet is often recommended by nutritionists. Eat lots of vegetables and make sure your plate is half filled with vegetables, preferably green ones.

2. Don’t drink alcohol to excess. You will regret it “the day after the night before”. Drink lots of water instead.

3. Next is exercise. Do some form of excise every day – a long walk, yoga … Get off the bus one stop before your final destination. Mental exercises, like crosswords, Sudoku… keep your brain active.

90 years old Rita Moreno, at the 2020 ’s Oscars Ceremony

4. Sleep is very important. If you have difficulties falling asleep, don’t try, just relax. If you had a bad day, don’t dwell on it. Think about tomorrow and the pleasures it will bring.

5. Only a few minutes of meditation will clear your full head.

6. Smile a lot. Everybody reacts positively to a smiling face.

7. Travel helps your brain, with new experiences and challenges – foreign languages, money systems… And while new places bring new pleasures, new faces feed the soul.

100 years old iconic legend Iris Apfel, collaboration with H&M

My Fashion Tips

Women

1. Don’t gain weight, but don’t get too thin either. Women who diet themselves to a stick don’t look good.

2. Plastic surgery? The problem is, one only notices badly done jobs. Successful processes can achieve miracles.

3. I think hair and make-up are a giveaway. Don’t stick to the ones you wore in your twenties, and please cut off the locks falling halfway down your back. Nothing is more ageing.

7. Beware of this season “must haves”, they are not necessarily going to be your best friends. Last year’s outfit will look “right on the money” with this season’s shoes. This season’s outfit with last year’s shoes definitely won’t.

8. Because you can just about zip up your old favourite frock, it is not going to make you look slimmer. Au contraire!

9. Don’t let clothes wear you. The maxim of Molyneux, a Thirties couturier, was that you should not notice what a woman is wearing, only how wonderful she looks.

13. Invest in a pink shirt. It’s cheaper than a facelift, and it will make your skin glow.

14. Don’t wear a designer head to toe (unless they are paying you).

15. Finally, dress for yourself, not for others. It will make you feel good and therefore look good.

4. A good hairstyle, a good pair of shoes and a good handbag. Everything else is about attitude say French women.

5. Not too much flesh on show. Watch the neckline and the hemline. But short skirts are fine if you have great pins – “if you got it, flaunt it”. People won’t notice your wrinkles so much!

6. Wear simple clothes, always with good accessories. Less is more in every way. This may not be breaking news, but it’s sound advise. Chose quality over quantity. Invest in quality basics. They will form the base of your wardrobe.

10. Don’t underestimate the importance of being comfortable. Tottering around in high heels is never a good look and you certainly are not going to relax. Comfort, until recently was a dirty word. Today it’s cool, a way of signaling youth and dynamism, the two most important status symbols of our age. Which means elegant flats, brogues, loafers and even trainers.

11. Don’t try to be sexy, be sensual.

12. Clear your wardrobe, it’s therapeutic. Make three piles: one for clothes you wear regularly, one for the one you wear from time to time, and the third with clothes you haven’t worn for a couple of years. Send these to your favourite charity. You will feel liberated. Next time you go shopping, look at what’s left and build around it.

Men

1. “Bad HAIR days” can be avoided with a good hair cut. Short is probably the best option, but if you have nice locks, it can be attractive, as long as they are controlled and washed regularly.

2. BEARDS are currently fashionable. Well trimmed, they can look good on young faces. But they are definitely aging and should be avoided by any one of a certain age – Graham Norton.

3. TATTOOS are my pet hate. David Beckham used to be very attractive before he covered his body with them. Think about what they are going to look like when the skin starts to age.

4. GLASSES can enhance a face if they fit their shape. Trust your optician for a professional opinion.

5. Clothes that fit properly will always make you look slimmer and younger. So avoid anything that’s too loose or too long. Make sure your trousers don’t fall heavily on your shoes, like Simon Cowell’s. A slightly shorter trouser will make you look taller.

7. There is nothing more youthful than a crisp white shirt.

8. Keep the wrinkles on your face, but off your clothes.

9. A pair of simple white trainers can look smart and modern when worn with chinos or jeans, or even a suit (not stone washed and no holes, please).

6. Avoid black, it’s a harsh colour to wear against older skin. Navy is far more flattering. However being a little older doesn’t preclude you from wearing strong colours, but only as accessories. Stick to one or two – shirt, tie, sweater, or a pocket square. But if you dare, go the David Hockney way.

10. However appealing a chunky cable knit sweater may look, it won’t be flattering if you are already a little chunky. A crew neck is a safe option. It looks great when worn under a blazer. Roll neck sweaters are back in fashion. They can effectively hide a multitude of chins.

11. You must call your old blouson a bomber jacket. No one says blouson anymore.

Rembrandt’s, Titian’s, Monet’s, Picasso’s, Hockney’s work never slacked with old age. Marie Curie learned to swim in her later years, Tolstoy learned to ride a bike in his seventies… and Cher, seventy-two, stole the show in “Mama Mia, Here We Go Again”.

Happiness is the goal we all try to reach, but the goal is a result of your attitude and your actions. Often people believe success makes people happy, but happiness is success.

As the French say, “Entre bien dans sa peau” – being happy in your own skin.

“Dream as you live forever. Live as if you die tomorrow.”

James Dean

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